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SIM'S . . .
and a
woollen
bonnet
BY
ALASTAIR BARCLAY
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Taken from the 1971 Bonnet Guild
Festival Guide
I'll bet there are not many people who know that a Stewarton-made bonnet once
sat on top of the world. You don't believe me ? Well hear this: The first man -
with Hillary - to reach the summit of Mount Everest, Sherpa Norgay Tenzing, was
at the time, wearing a balaclava that was made in "the bonnet toun."
Whaur's yur big Kilmarnock bunnets noo ?
This was only one of the things I learnt when I visited the factory where that
particular bonnet was made, Robert Sim of Stewarton, whose premises. Nether
Robertland Mill, stand on the left bank of the Annick near Dean Street forenent
the new bridge. Many folk will hardly know of its existence, for by comparison,
it is a small firm with no illusions of grandeur. The two storey building, which
was built in 1847, has no great outward appearance and some might even say it
was shabby. However, as the senior partner Mrs. Jenny Sim modestly admits: "We
don't have a show place here but we do the best with what we've got."
The founder, Robert Sim, bought the property and land where the factory stands,
in 1834, when the following advertisement appeared in "The Air Advertiser" on
Thursday December 19, 1833. House and Garden For Sale.
"There will be sold, by Public Roup, . . .. within the Buck's Head Inn of
Stewarton on Thursday the 23rd day of January 1834 at noon.
"All and whole that superior slated House, Offices and Garden pleasantly
situated near the Water of Annick at Stewarton, the property of William Aird,
late Bonnet-maker in Stewarton. Apply to Robert Miller, Writer in Stewarton who
is in possess ion of the Title Deeds and Articles of Roup".
That spelling of 'Air' for Ayr is not a printing error for that is how it spelt
throughout the paper which Mrs. Sim possesses.
Tenzing's balaclava was only one of the countless bonnets of all kinds that have
been-made at the Mill over the years, where nowadays they also turn out tartan
Tarn o' Shanters ( or Tarns as they call them in the trade ) and bob caps by the
thousand.
When I called at the factory, Mrs. Sim's brother and partner, Mr. Norrie Bowie,
was busy feeding a long length of knitted multi-coloured wool through a brusher,
and he explained that this was one of the processes in making bob caps. Norrie
interrupted his work to tell me briefly about bonnet making.
"First of all, " he said, "the hanks of wool are wound on to bobbins, " and he
guided me across to where Mrs. Grace Wilson was performing this operation.
"Then, " continued Norrie, "the bobbins of wool are transferred to the knitting
machines and made into balaclavas or bob caps."
We then watched the nimble fingers of Mrs. Maisie McBride, Mrs. Nan Wilson and
Mrs. Jean Wallace as they expertly converted the strands of yarn into knitted
fabric. It looked a tricky job but I suppose it's a case of every man or in this
case woman to her own trade.
The next stage is stitching and Norrie introduced three long-serving employees,
Mrs. Annie McQuhue, Mrs. Nana Hamilton, and Mrs. Isa Fulton ( who as Isa Blair
used to be in my class at Stewarton School ). They were stitching the knitted
wool into the recognisable shapes of bonnets. Nana Hamilton started with the
firm in 1933 and except for the war years, has been there since then.
Across a crowded room to the ironing section where Mrs. Mary Donnachie, Miss
Alice Marshall and Mrs. Annie McGregor were ironing and pressing away merrily
and I was told that this was an important part of the work. "Topping" is the
final job and the ladies who were sewing on the toories included Miss Alexa
Ewing, Mrs. Buchanan and Mrs. Smith - "wee toppers" you might say.
Mr. Bowie stated : "Our bonnets are exported all over the world, to Canada, New
Zealand, America, Sweden and Switzerland."
"Do you send any to Russia?" I asked thinking of the Russian winter.
"Not as far as we know, " replied Norrie, "but of course many of our goods are
sold to agents and then we don't know their final destination".
Mrs Jenny Sim
(Provost David Sim in the
Picture)
One thing I noticed was that
all the workers were smiling or laughing. Either they were very happy at their
work or they were practising saying "cheese" for the benefit of
John Hall's
camera.
At this point we were joined by Mrs. Jenny Sim who was tastefully dressed in a
powder blue woollen suit. Jenny was once a high jump champion at the Bonnet
Guild Sports.
"As far as I know, " she said, "most of the Stewarton Sims are related and I
understand that the family line began when two Sim brothers came from Dunblane
over 200 years ago to start up in business at the Block, Irvine. One of those
brothers was my late husband David's great great great grandfather. Later the
founder of our firm, Robert Sim, David's great grandfather, was bought out of
the army by his father who set him up in the bonnet making business in
Stewarton, at High Street, then Dean- Street, and finally here at Nether
Robertland."
The Smiling Stichers
"My husband's grandfather was
Provost David Sim early this century and he was a great Liberal. During his
provostship, he was instrumental with the Council at the time, of bringing
sewage and running water to the town. He was succeeded by his son J.O. Sim who
died in 1949."
We then made another short tour of the works and saw Jenny's other brother,
Russell Bowie manipulating the warp machine which is a system whereby spun
threads of wool are extended on a loom and woven, and this process is the start
of tartan tammies. This warp machine once stood in the old Lace Work in Rigg
Street and is over 60 years old. The firm also possess the only wauk mill left
in the town if not in existence, but since they stopped making the traditional
Stewarton bonnet and army caps, it is seldom used except for milling heavy
tarns.
In another part of the building, I spotted a man wearing a red American golfing
cap who bore a remarkable resemblance to Sir Francis Chichester. He was 83-year
old Andrew Caldow, a part-time worker. After a chat we discovered we had family
connections from 'way back' In a wee toun like Stewarton you never ken who
your relations are - sometimes it's better not to dig too deeply, if you know
what I mean.
Another youthful veteran who
also works part-time is Owen Donnachie, and the employee with the longest
association with the firm is Mrs. Brown of Dean Street who still does "home
work". As I was told by Norrie Bowie, "You'd better mention all the workers or
you'll get your heid in your haun's tae play wi', " I'd better say that the
overlocker is Mrs. Betty Gray, Mrs. Margaret Gardiner is a winder and Mrs. Prue
Gallacher is a member of the "topping" team.
Before leaving, Mrs. Sim produced two old bonnets; one was a Stewarton Bonnet
which had been knitted with "pekie" pins maJiy years ago and really was a work
of art. The other was a crocheted maroon bonnet which once belonged to Mrs.
Sim's uncle and his name "John Brown Russell" was printed inside. Many older
Stewartonians will remember John Russell who lived in Standalane House and was
known locally as "Lord John".
Many of the tartan tammies made at Robert Sim's are worn on the heads of
Scottish football supporters on the biannual jaunt to Wembley - sometimes
transferred from head to pocket if the team gets a licking.
As I said at the outset,
Robert Sim of Stewarton is not and does not pretend to be a large organisation.
But for around 150 years "the oldest firm in Stewarton" has made the town's
traditional product, the woollen bonnet, which in spite of changing fashions in
headgear, continues to find a ready market. Although it has been superseded for
every day wear, it is in the recreational and sporting world that these bonnets
are to be found, and Stewarton made bob caps,
tarns and balaclavas are worn extensively by skiers, weekend sailors and
mountaineers etc. the world over. Only last year, members of the famous
Annapurna expedition wore bonnets made at Sim's. In the United States, tartan
tarns are popular with teenage girls and in Britain woollen caps in club colours
are worn by football fans.
When J.O. Sim died, followed five years afterwards by his son David, it looked
like the end of the road for the firm. But Jenny Sim, with little or no
experience, with her brother Norrie and a handful of faithful employees, have
not only saved the business, but extended its prosperity.
Let's hope they "knit weel" for a long time to come.
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